化石种子

Illustration by me

Italian shoes are recognized as the mix of comfort, good quality and unique design around the world. ANCI (National Association of Italian Shoemakers) recently did an interesting research on “ Chinese Taste for Shoes”. They interviewed Chinese Scholar, opinion leaders and fashion industry insiders from key cities to provide the hints of Chinese Taste for Shoes. i was invited to this project and In my point of view, although this research project is not a large scale quantitative one, it has a lot of meaning, which reflects the importance of China in worldwide fashion field as well as could be a good reference for both domestic and international shoemakers. 

i'm gonna share the results in this post and also you can check my Chinese column on jingdaily.There are 7 questions in this interview. Here are key highlights from it.  Chinese are regarding shoes as a pretty important element to the look for both fashionable and non-fashionable people. Branded shoes and trendy shoes are two key evolutions. In terms of “show off” shoes, the answers are going to the luxury brand. From my observation, luxury French shoe brand Christian Louboutin are crazily aspired here although they might cost you one month salary. Fancy look is attractive to Chinese people, but comfort is also the key word for them. When talk about “ Sensuality” “feminine or masculine”, interviewees have diversified opinions. 

Details interviews are as below:

 

People Interviewed:

Susanna Ting, Vice President South Ocean, Hong Kong

Eric Yeung, Lecturer of Hong Kong Design Institute

Ameersing Luximon, Assistant Professor in the Institute of textile and clothing, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

Winnie Gao, ex publisher di RCS, Beijing

Ocean Lu, Marketing Director Beijing Nuoyuan Trade, Beijing

Erica Ji, Blogger, Shanghai

Catwalk, Blogger, Beijing

Yoanna Wan yao, Blogger

Kei Li, Blogger, Ningbo

Xiao Nini, Blogger, Chengdu

Xiaobai, Blogger, Chengdu

Tracy Chow, Agent

Wu Tong, Owner of the Easetex Industries textile Company– Nanjing

Uma PiaoYan, Rayli Mgaazine – Beijing

Yip Tin Pui, Programme Manager of the H.N. Ho Family Foundation - Hong Kong

Daniel Ng, Senior buyer di Seibu department Store ofi Hong Kong

William Wong, owner of IFG – Italian Fashion Galleria, Chengdu

1. How much are the shoes important in defining the look? 

 

One standard to judge one person’s tastes is the shoe. Especially for men. Calkwalk 

 

To begin my look from the shoes. Xiao Nini 

 

For a fashionable Chinese: Very important. Shoes can make the look impressive. Erica Ji 

 

Not yet very important for most Chinese women. they are mostly concerned about make ups, handbags, and recently jewelries. Shoes are not yet up to average Chinese men's fashion agenda, even some of them do appreciate good shoes, but hard to find them. Winnie Gao 

 

The clothes make the man Buddha by Gold, the external image can not be ignored. Eric Yeung 

 

For non-fashionable Chinese shoes should just be comfortable and suitable for both business and casual situations. If they look good then it is better. Yoanna Wan Yao 

 

Fashionable or non fashionable chinese, shoes are as important as cloth. Susanna Ting

 

Chinese men think shoes are more important than garments. Ocean Lu

• Fashionable Chinese, prefer to buy expensive high fashion shoes. For not fashionable Chinese, shoes are still very important. Ameersing Luximon
• Very important for fashionable chinese. Tracy Chow
• For a fashionable person it’s very important coz it’s one way to show his taste. Xiaobai

2. How is the Chinese taste for shoes evolving?

 

From following the fashion in the past …..to total personal choice. Calkwalk

 

Before I just liked the black and grey shoes. Now I consider the different style shoes. Erica Ji

 

Through tv and magazine fashion people increase the taste of shoes. Susanna Ting

 

The taste of the shoes to Chinese has still arrived only in the first and second class cities. Kei Li

 

From recognizing sports shoes in early 90's , 100% leather shoes late 90's, now to branded shoes, then handmade tailor -measured shoes. women in general have better taste and accept new products, concept much faster than man in China. Winnie Gao

 

Sole with rubber i/o leather. Wu Tong

 

Luxury is a constantly evolving especially buying brand shoe. Eric Yeung

 

The only change I think is that they now pay attention to how match things. Yoanna Wan Yao

 

Concerning the style and the materials used. Tracy Chow

 

Its changing every day. Now it’s trendy the fancy business: fancy style, but still you could wear them for an important meeting or for wearing in the office. Ocean Lu

 

Most the Chinese used to think that all Italian shoes were formal and high heels. And now they are more interested in the trend, fashion as well as comfort and quality.. William Wong

More fashionable & colorful, desire to close to the international fashion. Uma PiaoYan

 

3. What does it mean "Show Off" for a Chinese?

Personally I hate this word. Calkwalk

 

Means the brands which can be recognized easily. Xiao Nini

 

Value of the brand and the price of them is what can be showed off in China. Kei Li

 

Should be luxury brand,or Made in Italy,.. . Wu Tong

 

Luxury products help their personal confidence. Eric Yeung

Imported products are mainly people around 40 years old. Ocean Lu

 

It means wearing the expansive clothes or shoes. Xiaobai

 

It means take the advantage of Luxury (or some exterior expression) to show their wealthy and power. Uma PiaoYan

 

4. Comfortable and easy to wear shoes or show off shoes?

 

Easy to wear shoes in daily look . Erica Ji

 

If the shoes are hard to wear I am always impetuous to throw them away... . Kei Li

 

Shoes that look fine-made, simple and delicate, edgy and well-designed, and comfortable as well. Yoanna Wan yao

Smart casual is often welcome by men nowadays . Eric Yeung

 

Always wear high heels to work even it’s not comfortable. Comfortable style for weekends. Maxi wife

 

To tell the truth I prefer the show off shoes coz I am a girl. Xiaobai

Comfortable is the first demand when people choose shoes in China, and some people also would like to choose a show off one but not so much. Uma PiaoYan

 

5. What does it mean "Sensuality?

It’s more about the pursuing of the details and the quality. Catwalk

 

High heel, slim shape, toe exposed and black color. Erica Ji

 

It should be cute and females for women. High heels and some shining decorations. Xiao Nini

High heel for sure, but not too high to wear . Winnie Gao

They are peacockish. Wu Tong

For shoes highest! Susanna Ting

 

Only young Chinese man concerning shoe cos it can match their total look. Eric Yeung

 

They like fancy but not very fancy shoes. Ocean Lu

 

Sensuality” for Chinese man mean perfect. The fit is perfect, the price is value for money, the workmanship is impeccable, the smell is soothing, and the feeling for wearing a sensual cloth and shoe is relaxing. Ameersing Luximon

 

Basically the word 'sensuality' doesn't have a very good meaning in Chinese for shoes, I think those low- cut uppers that one can see the webs of toes are sexy enough. Yoanna Wan Yao

 

6. Why do you buy Italian Shoes?

 

Because of their design, their quality and the tech of hand-making. Catwalk

 

Hand-making is great , comfortably to wear. Xiao Nini

 

I more concern about the style. Wu Tong

 

Italian shoes are well made and stylish too. I do not buy them in China, hard to find, or too over priced. Winnie Gao

 

When I buy the shoes I am not concerned whether they are produced in Italy or not because right now most countries can produce good shoes. Kei Li

I don't usually buy Italian shoes because they are expensive. Italian shoes are supposed to be hand-made, with very good quality and fashionable as well. Even though we all know they are made in Italy by Chinese... Yoanna Wan Yao

 

Brand names, or It is fancy with comfortable feeling. Ocean Lu

 

I found that more comfortable and fitted. Susanna Ting

 

Since quality is good, that's why i used to buy italian shoes. Tracy Chow

 

Just by looking at it you know it is made in Italy. Ameersing Luximon

 

Because it’s made delicately just like the art work. Xiaobai

 

Quality, style. I would like to buy more if the price is reasonable in China. Uma PiaoYan

 

 

7. When can be a shoe considered feminine or masculine?

In pink color, with bowknot. Erica Ji

Killing heels, or a sweet ballerina. Yoanna Wan Yao

We don’t wear much pink and very bright colors unless it is sports shoes. Boots for mens are sometimes considered less masculine. Ocean Lu

Definitely the high heels. Susanna Ting

Masculine dress shoe for a lovely evening. Ameersing Luximon

 

For the masculine: the technology is considered very important. Kei Li

 

Of course it’s high-heeled shoes. Xiaobai

 

             

               

             

             Issue 2012春夏系列

越是民族的东西，就越是世界的东西。可这话的前提是得把民族的元素运用好。这并不是件容易的过程。去取形，取其神是最高境界。如若只有形状的生硬堆砌，不但让人乏味，也容易陷入“土而怪”的尴尬境地。

近日了解到泰国品牌Issue，觉得很有趣。一提到泰国，一定会想到其特有的印花元素。而Issue正是以印花为基石，在简约阔型的基础上，创作出具有现代感的实穿款。

驾驭大面积印花不但需要身材，也需要气质。能驾驭大面积的印花裙的多数还是T台模特和时装精英们。Issue比较聪明地用粉绿、粉红、纯白将视觉感较强的民族感彩色印花相间，降低了普通人穿着的难度。

                         

                          

民族印花小配件们都相当讨好。手包们颜色够鲜艳，用来称素色衫，可增添衣着乐趣。

                          

                          

                          

至于印花Bikini, 也相当值得关注。比起日系杂志上多年不变的热烈大花款式，多了几分别致和内敛。无论你是文艺女青年，还是性感热辣妹，效果应该都不错。

                         

开始时，一听说是泰国牌，心理存有一分钟的小鄙视。事实证明，这种想法要不得。Issue 由设计师Bhubawit Kritpholnara 创立于1999年，同时也受到欧洲主流媒体Teen Vogue, L'Officiel Paris的关注。目前，shopthemag将独家销售Issue 2012春夏系列。

上次说到Hugo Boss 即将于本周五既5月18日晚8点45分在北京农展馆上演3D时装大秀。现已进入最后2日倒计时阶段。

为了这次具有全球影响力的大秀，Hugo Boss在宣传上相当周到。多集《北京之旅》视频持续更新，以日记花絮的形式报道整个大秀的准备过程。京味儿十足的配乐，加上Hugoboss的幕后团队揭秘，使得相关视频相当有看头。可以登录以下网址进行观看：

http://www.hugoboss.cn/fashionshow/index.php 
http://www.mobile.hugoboss.cn 
http://www.weibo.com/hugobossofficial 

以下是精彩节选：

 

日记第一集：3D大秀消息确认！

 

日记第二集：为什么是北京。世界品牌来华做大秀变成了件时髦的事儿。这次不仅做大秀有看头，连线上直播也因为首次采用3D技术，而令人期待。

 

日记第四集：设计师探秘。本次秀展示的是Hugo Boss Black 男女装系列。因此视频花絮怎可少了男装设计总监Kevin Lobo和女装创意总监Eyan Allen. 本集带你领略Kein Lobo满满当当的灵感墙。

 

日记第五集：showroom天堂。诺大宽敞的showroom，相信是每个女人的梦想之地。

 

日记第十集：女装试装。女装创意总监Eyan Allen和 造型师Kim为名模Yulia试装。Yulia试穿的白色系列，格外好看。

 

日记第十一集：幕后团队陆续抵京。Byran Boy 也来了。

本次大秀的产品系列将会在6月在各大分店销售。

让我们一起期待本周五晚的大秀吧。